什麼是瘋狗浪?

For centuries, sailors told stories of rogue waves, also called freak waves or killer waves. But scientists have only accepted that they are real in the past few decades. Scientists call them "extreme storm waves". They are waves that are more than twice the size of the waves around them. They are very hard to predict and often come suddenly from a different direction from the wind and the other waves. People who have seen rogue waves often describe them as "walls of water". They usually have steep sides, with unusually deep troughs in front of them. Because these waves are so rare, it is very difficult to measure and study them. Scientists are still investigating exactly how and when they form, but there are several known causes. The first is called constructive interference. Swells travel across the ocean at different speeds and in different directions. As they pass through one another, their crests and troughs sometimes line up and add together. This can create enormous, towering waves that disappear just as quickly. If the swells are traveling in the same direction, these mountainous waves may last for several minutes. The second is the focusing of wave energy. When storm waves run into a strong ocean current flowing the other way, the waves are squeezed closer together and can combine into very large rogue waves. This happens in strong currents such as the Gulf Stream in the Atlantic and the Agulhas Current off South Africa. Rogue waves that form this way tend to last longer.
幾百年來,水手們一直流傳著關於「瘋狗浪」的故事,這種浪也被叫做「畸形浪」或「殺人浪」。可是直到最近幾十年,科學家才承認它們真的存在。 科學家把它們叫做「極端風暴浪」。這種浪的高度是周圍波浪的兩倍以上,非常難以預測,而且常常和風向、其他波浪的方向都不一樣,突然從別的方向衝過來。 看過瘋狗浪的人常常形容它是一面「水牆」。它們的浪壁通常很陡,前面還有一道異常深的浪谷。 因為這種浪非常罕見,所以很難測量和研究。科學家還在研究它們到底是怎麼形成、在什麼時候形成的,不過已經知道了幾個原因。 第一個原因叫做「建設性干涉」。湧浪在海上以不同的速度、往不同的方向前進。當它們彼此交會時,波峰和波谷有時會剛好對齊、疊加在一起。這樣就可能形成高聳的巨浪,但它們消失得也很快。如果湧浪往同一個方向前進,這種像山一樣的巨浪可能會持續好幾分鐘。 第二個原因是波浪能量的匯聚。當風暴掀起的波浪迎頭撞上一股方向相反的強大洋流時,波浪會被擠得更緊密,可能合併成非常大的瘋狗浪。這種情況會出現在大西洋的墨西哥灣流、南非外海的阿古拉斯洋流這類強大的洋流中。以這種方式形成的瘋狗浪,往往持續得比較久。